Cundy's Harbor is Maine's oldest commercial fishing village--and the local Hancock Gourmet Lobster Company takes delicious advantage there of the massive quantity of freshly caught lobster that comes in to the port every day. What does Hancock Gourmet do? They create lobster dishes that get shipped, in a frozen state, to their loyal clientele.

I recently had the opportunity to sample a number of their products, and found the general quality to be very good. I thought their Cundy's Harbor Lobster Stew had a generous amount of lobster in it, though the thin, buttery broth was a bit lacking in lobstery depth. The Yarmouth Island Lobster Hor D'oeuvre is a cream-cheesy ramekin, to be served as a warm spread for crackers, that is highly reminiscent, in a nicely nostalgic way, of 1950s entertaining.

But the star of the line to me, without question, is the Pemaquid Point Lobster Pot Pies, which come in individual porcelain dishes. After you defrost these guys, and heat them up (15 minutes at 425 degrees, another 10 minutes at 350 degrees), you will serve hot pies with lovely, golden, flaky domes of good puff pastry (not very buttery or oily, which some people prefer). When you break the pastry with your fork, an irresistible lobster vapor emerges--and you'll find a delicious, pink cream sauce inside, medium-rich, touched with sherry, seasoned perfectly. There are not vegetables in the sauce, no chunks of potatoes--just very sweet, very fresh-tasting chunks of lobster.

My one complaint: I'd like those lobster pieces to be a little bigger, and for there to be a few more of them. Nevertheless, the whole thing works together beautifully--and, if you are wracking your brain for a great first course for an elegant dinner party, one that doesn't take up much of your time, your problem is solved. Of course, this problem solver's definitely on the pricey side: about $15 per pie, with a $19 shipping cost for a box of four. If I'm having a good month--I could definitely see myself doing it!